Panerai Elux Lab-ID Review: Taking "Luminous" Seriously in an Unusual Way



The new Elux Lab-ID draws inspiration from Panerai's rich history and does something few other watches do.

Today, Panerai released a wild watch that I can only describe as "Peak Panerai". Yes, it's big, complicated, and loud. It's definitely not my favorite brand of watch. However, the new Submersible Elux Lab-ID (reference number PAM01800) is very cool. The new Submersible measures 49mm x 21.9mm thick and has a blue Ti-Ceramitech case, bezel, and caseback. But what's inside (and visible through the dial) is astounding. The P.9010/EL movement has six barrels that not only provide a three-day power reserve, but also provide 30 minutes of mechanical micro-generator-powered illumination for the hands on the dial (and the luminous dots on the bezel).

This is a deceptively simple watch that is very complex, and its functions are supported by four patents. By opening the push-button guard at eight o'clock, the wearer can reach a button that releases energy from the four barrels, unleashing a micro-generator that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy and illuminates the luminous dots that are usually light-charged, but in this case, they are LEDs.

It also illuminates moving parts such as the hands and bezel (only 15 LEDs on the bezel are lit at a time, not all 60), which is obviously a complex feat. The system runs using custom coils, magnets, and stators and does not contain any active electronics. It also has a linear "power light" reserve indicator at 6 o'clock and a small seconds hand at 9 o'clock. But if the 30 minutes of power are used up, the watch also has Super LumiNova X2 luminous material on the hour markers and hour hand, and Super LumiNova X1 luminous material on the minute hand and bezel dots.

The micro-generator system reminds me in some ways of the DeBethune DB28GS “Grand Bleu” that James Stacey covered in 2019, but Panerai is much bolder in practice. This is probably partly due to the black dial covered in carbon nanotubes, which absorb external light and increase contrast when activated by light. The watch has a lightweight ceramic titanium case - 44% lighter than steel, but with ten times the fracture toughness of traditional ceramics.

In 1966, Panerai discovered a new material they called Elux, an abbreviation for “elettroluminescenza”, meaning electroluminescence, which contains absolutely no radioactive substances but can be used to illuminate technical equipment even in the darkest environments. They created electroluminescent panels consisting of a uniform luminous surface in various sizes, all of which are shock-resistant and very energy-efficient and can be powered by batteries.

This technology has been widely used in the Italian Navy, from lighting panels in command and control centers to illuminated paths and signs for helicopter landings on the decks of warships. The fact that the “Laboratorio di Idee” was able to take these ideas from the family-owned Panerai workshop and make them into commercial watches – while keeping them mechanical – is one of the coolest things I’ve seen Panerai do recently.

Everyone keeps saying that, so let me stop you; yes, this pushes the boundaries of “giant watch” size, even for Panerai. This watch almost dethrones the MB&F HM-11 as the thickest watch I’ve ever worn (at about 23mm), though not quite. Is 49mm x 21.9mm too wide and thick for daily wear? Almost certainly. Is this watch one of the few places where I can give the brand a chance? Absolutely. If you’re going to make a watch this big, you better make good use of all the case space. They did all that and more. I mean, six barrels in the movement? That’s crazy. And yet, wearability is still relatively good thanks to the blue Ti-Ceramitech case.

The main feature – the switchable light – doesn’t shine like a flashlight in the daylight, but it does the job. In boutiques with carefully selected lighting conditions, like the Panerai flagship store on Madison Avenue (where I photographed this watch), it’s sometimes hard to tell if I forgot to turn off the Elux until I cover the dial to check. This means that half an hour into my time with the watch, I noticed that the power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock was completely turned off by the mechanical striped slider that looks like a dying battery. Oops. Yes, it turns out I forgot to turn off the light.

But I like the mechanical light that stays on without your intervention. I miss the Timex Indiglo I had as a kid, and holding down the button while diving can be inconvenient. Here you can see the cover of the button that triggers the light. In the next photo, you’ll see the button from the back of the case (honestly, I forgot to take a photo with the cover removed). You can also get a better look at the Ti-Ceramitech case. My only concern about the case is that the sample I looked at seemed to have picked up some scratches already due to the texture. I’m curious to see how the material will hold up to wear and tear over time, and since it’s a relatively new material, only time will tell.

The new Submersible Elux is pretty expensive. But lately, I’ve been feeling a bit bored with most releases; it seems like brands have been lacking something completely new. Honestly, I didn’t expect Panerai to satisfy my need for novelty, but kudos to the brand for coming up with this one.

Basics
Brand: Panerai
Model: Submersible Elux LAB-ID
Reference: PAM01800
Diameter: 49 mm
Thickness: 21.6 mm
Case Material: Blue Ti-Ceramitech case, bezel, case back
Dial Color: Black dial covered with light-absorbing carbon nanotubes
Markers: Mechanically illuminated LED hour markers powered by a micro-generator
Luminous: Mechanically powered LED and SuperLuminova® X2
Waterproof: 500 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber bracelet, 26 mm tapering to 22 mm, titanium pin buckle
Movement
Movement: P.9010/EL caliber
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve function, linear power reserve indicator, dive time calculation, stop seconds function for precise time setting
Diameter: 13 3/4 lignes
Thickness: 10.80 mm
Power Reserve: 3-day time display; 30-minute power reserve on demand function Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 55 jewels Chronometer certification: No Other details: Sapphire crystal; Patented push-button protection system; 6 barrels: 4 for lighting, 2 for time display